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The five most popular collars for men's shirts

Types of collars on men's shirts

Men's shirt is a formal-style shoulder product made from thin fabrics. It is put on as independent clothes or in combination with a suit. A broader definition is the term "shirt". The neck of a man’s shirt, as a rule, is made out with a stiff collar on a stitched front.

The history of men's shirts

The cut of the male product, as well as the types of collars, has been formed for a long time. The design of the shirt and its details have changed little in the last 100-150 years.

The first shirts in the history of European costume were underwear. Only collar and cuffs were allowed to be shown publicly. From here came a fashion for decorating details of clothing of nobles with frills and ruffles. Their appearance and length were determined by the length of the cutout of the vest and the type of jacket.

Costumes and outerwear were sewn by experienced tailors, while shirts and underwear were easily made at home. They were cut in the form of rectangles with minimal tissue consumption. The shirt collar was also cut in the form of a rectangle or a neckline. Subsequently, it began to be decorated or simply tied with a long tie.

In the costume of the nobles, the collar, which was fastened with a neck decorative pin, was worn separately from the shirt. For the beauty of the fit, a scarf tie was tied to the collar.

Men's shirts in the 19th century were sewn from linen. Rarely chose cotton, and silk was incredibly expensive and was used for ceremonial costumes of certain classes. The shirt of the nobleman and the worker was distinguished by color and details, fabric quality, whiteness, delicacy of seams, and the presence of an embroidered monogram. Even then they knew how to bleach and starch, to create small decorative details.

The shirt of that time was considered linen and was rarely worn without a jacket or vest. The paintings in only one shirt most often depicted people of creative professions in the home, artists.

In the 19th century, the design of the shirt has changed little. It remained long, with cuts along the side seams, with wide sleeves gathered for tucks on the okat and on the wrists and with a vertical neckline to the chest. At the beginning of the 20th century, the product was still considered part of the linen wardrobe and was worn closed. The shirt with short sleeves is still out of business etiquette today, and is not worn at an official meeting or at the office.

It is surprising that in North America 10-20s types of collars for men's shirts that are similar to today's fashionable options have already been formed. The basis is the same - it is a stitched post and a take-off part with departure angles of various shapes.

Interestingly, the collars were still not sewn. They were changed and washed more often than a shirt. Therefore, removable collars remained to the care of the laundresses.

In active and businesslike New York at that time, there was an advertisement for a quick order of a new image of a gentleman for every week.

It was proposed to order a catalog of goods at home and make a wonderful gift to a family member in the form of a new collar and cuffs.

Business and strict fashion of the beginning of the last century introduced changes even to the corners of the stand-up collar.

There were even accessories that held the shape of the corners. Now this function is carried by reinforcing duplicate materials and plastic corners.

Men's collar classification options

There are several types of collar classification. The main one is the design principle and appearance. In fact, the cut of the shirt collars has not changed much since the beginning of the 20th century. Decoration has gone, clarity and severity of form has remained.

Typically, the collar of a man’s shirt consists of a take-off and a stitched or one-piece stand.

According to the classical school of sewing design and technology, collars are divided into:

  • flat-lying or turn-down (with a low stand),
  • standing (one-piece or set-in rack along the neck),
  • stand-up and turn-down (stand with departure),
  • jacket type (complemented by lapels),
  • modified and fantasy.

Classic shirts are stand-up and turn-down and represent a special category in the classification of the design of the neck. Rarely can one come across fantasy options that relate more likely to theatrical or stage costumes.

Butterfly Collar

A collar with wing-corners and a high starched stance in combination with an elegant bow-tie. Such a shirt is a mandatory requirement of the white / black tie dress code.

We recommend that you pay attention to the small checked shirt from the Scrollinavian clothing store Trolls. The natural cotton product has a button-down collar and is complemented by a pocket with an embroidered company logo.

Men's shirt from the Trolls store, price: from 5 390 rub.

Scandinavian clothing store Trolls

Telephone: +7 (495) 740-90-58
Website: trolls-msk.ru
Instagram: @trollsmskru

Classic collars for men's shirts

Shirt collars have limited variety of shapes and many names that differ depending on the country of origin of the design school.

In international fashion, the English-language names have taken root in the types of collars of men's shirts. They have certain features associated with the departure width and the shape of the corners.

  • Classical / Classical On a detachable rigid rack, it is clasped on one slotted button. Departure of even average width. Harmonious with any shape of the face. At corners of 4-5 cm. The universal collar is suitable for everyday wear with an unbuttoned button, and complete with a classic suit and tie.

  • Standard / Standart, Straight-point It looks like a classic, but the corners of the departures are better combined with a tie. The distance between the departure angles is closer than the classic model.

  • Spread, Cutaway Features a wide distance between the corners. It came into fashion relatively recently - at the beginning of the 21st century. The good thing is that a wide tie is combined with it with a large knot or knot called a “windsor”. There are modifications in more or less open versions.

  • Tab Collar Collar, complemented by a loop that holds the ends. A shirt with such a collar is necessarily complemented by a tie. It has a British origin.

  • Pin Collar, Eyelet This is an optional collar with a loop where flies are fixed with a decorative pin.

  • Club Collar Rounded corners are typical for this shape. Often they are fastened with a loop or pin (as in “Tab”). It is necessary to carefully select a suit and tie, combined with a rounded shape.

  • Button Down The appearance of buttons on a classic collar is believed to have shifted from a polo shirt. The players then wished to have collars, the corners of which would be fixed and not raised by the wind during the game. Over time, such a collar with buttons switched to casual shirts, and then fixed in an official suit.

  • Hidden For a more rigorous option, there is a button hidden on the inside of the gate.

  • Stand Collar / Mandarin A standard collar for a casual shirt. It is difficult to combine with a suit and does not suit every type and shape of the face. Often found on a uniform.

  • Wing Stand Collar with turned decorative corners. It is typical for shirts designed for sets with tailcoats, tuxedos and a bow tie in accordance with the “black tie” dress code. Can be worn with an elegant silk tie with a small knot.

How to choose a shirt collar

The appearance of the collar is stylistically always associated with the image, the presence or absence of a suit and the type of tie. In addition to the features of the shirt and the need to combine it with other objects, there is a relationship between the type of collar and the shape of the face. By choosing the right collar in form, a man can enhance the impression of the style of the image and improve his personal external data.

  • If you have a face with clear, angular features, a wide “cutaway” collar will soften your perception. This collar neutralizes the stiffness of the face.
  • If you find it difficult to determine your type, focus on a collar with an average width of departure. Small details, buttons and cufflinks accentuate the face and must be selected very carefully.
  • A round face will be more elongated to make the average departure width and sharp corners.
  • With a short neck, do not wear a stand-up collar or a fashionable stand-up option on a high stitched stand. In this case, it will be uncomfortable to tie a tie, you will want to unfasten the top button.

Men's shirt collar device

1. Ends (Collar points) - the pointed parts of the collars of the collar (stripes of fabric turned down)
2. Lapel Length (Collar point length) - the distance between the pointed ends of the collar and the stand.
3. Rack (Collar band) - a strip of fabric wrapped and directly adjacent to the neck.
4. Collar Height (Collar height) - the transverse width of the collar as it should sit on the neck in a turned away form.
5. Neckline (Tie space) - the gap between the upper parts of the lapels in the buttoned state.
6. Cutout width (Spread) Is the distance between the ends of the collar.

Men's shirts collar shape

The shape of the collar is determined primarily by its angle, which can be, like any angle, sharp, straight and blunt. Perhaps the most common collars with an angle close to a straight line or almost straight. This shape of the collar of a men's shirt is the most versatile. From time to time, shirt collars with rounded tips come into fashion. Interestingly, these curves can appear on almost all types of turn-down collars.

There are several basic types of collars, and each has its own characteristics. If you are free to understand them, then you can easily choose the perfect men's shirt.

Collar Types

Most men can distinguish between approximately five types of shirt collars. This is a traditional turn-down collar, which is called classic, stand-up collar, bow-collar, button collar and collar without top button, like in a Hawaiian shirt.

European collars

  • Euro
  • Continental
  • Soavi
  • Stephen
  • Wild boar
  • Baton down
  • University
  • Truman
  • Tab
  • Round pin
  • Loop ends
  • Snap tab
  • Wing
  • Albini
  • Vario
  • Varna
  • Cromby

Updated: 07.07.2018 00:25

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Basic collar models

  • Button-down - a collar, the corners of which are fastened to the main part of the shirt with buttons. One of the most informal varieties is not suitable for formal situations, but it can be in harmony with both jeans and not too strict suits.
  • Cutaway / extreme cutaway - a collar with very far apart ends, the angle between them approaches 180 degrees. It is considered very official, in good harmony with cufflinks for cufflinks, business suits, double-breasted unpaired jackets. It should be borne in mind that sometimes the word cutaway also refers to a less formal collar with an angle of about 130-140 degrees.
  • Spread (“shark”, “shark fin”) - at this collar the angle between the tips is noticeably less than 180 degrees, and this is a fairly universal variety. American image maker Michael Anton advises giving preference to models with an angle between the ends of 130 degrees or less.
  • Semi spread, semi cutaway, medium spread - the angle here is even smaller (closer to 90 degrees), and versatility is higher. One of the best options.
  • Kent - the angle between the tips is about 90 degrees or slightly less (while for semi-spread, it slightly exceeds 90 degrees). It is also a very versatile collar, although it is not suitable for large tie knots.
  • Tab - a model with a small angle between the tips and an additional clasp. It is combined only with small tie knots. Today it looks unusual, but at the same time it is a classic collar that suits many men. True, it should be borne in mind that without a tie he looks bad.
  • Pin collar - pin collar, a rare and very peculiar type, which was popular in the first third of the last century. It may look very elegant. It harmonizes well only with small tie knots; a shirt with such a collar should not be worn without a tie.
  • Wing ("butterfly") - a collar with small bent tips. It is combined only with bow ties, tuxedos and tailcoats. Very official.
  • Club - a collar with rounded edges, another rare variety. It may come in handy if you like this style, and the dress code is not required. Keep in mind that for some people this collar seems old-fashioned.
  • Camp is a very informal collar without a fastener. Most often found on short-sleeved summer shirts.

Contrast collars

On some shirts you can see collars that contrast with the main part of the product. As a rule, they look stylish, but if you want to follow the classical canons, then keep in mind that, firstly, such collars should be white, and secondly, that they look quite formal and sometimes somewhat pretentious.

As the American image maker Michael Anton writes, “gentlemen know that the contrast collar can only be white, and the cuffs of the same shirt can be French (with cufflinks), either white or from the same fabric as the whole shirt.”

Shirts with a contrast collar should not be combined with jeans, chinos without arrows, and especially shorts.

Multi-button collars

Such models are quite rare. Sometimes they look very good, but not everyone goes. According to German style expert Bernhard Retzel, “the wide diverging ends of the collar with two buttons give the look incredible elegance, but men with a short neck should refrain from this option.” In addition, it should be borne in mind that such collars look pretentious, so it is unlikely that they will be a good choice if you still hold a starting position in the company or go for an interview.

We add that three or four buttons on the collar - this is a bust. Such models should be ignored, because they look pretty vulgar and too catchy. Moreover, some manufacturers exacerbate the problem by making buttons and loops contrasting.

Collar Designs

Depending on the structure of the insides, two main types of collars can be distinguished:

  • Fused (glued) - equipped with a thin gasket glued from the inside to the main fabric of the collar. As a rule, they look strictly and are easy to iron. On low-quality products, bubbles appear over time.
  • Non-fused (without glue) - equipped with a gasket of several layers sewn into the collar. Such models can also look strictly, but they, unlike glued collars, are usually not completely flat. Ironing them on average is more difficult. The simplest versions of collars of this type are equipped with a single-layer gasket, are soft and look informal. Sometimes the gasket is completely absent.

Collar - "shark"

"Shark", or Italian collar. The ends are allotted a considerable distance from each other. The corners are spaced specially to demonstrate the mastery of the knotted knot, the exclusivity of the fabric and pattern. It is combined both with ties and
with butterflies.

A shirt with retracted corners of the collar from Milano Moda will allow you to successfully present the original tie. A cotton shirt with long sleeves fits comfortably to the body and blends perfectly with a classic suit of any color. Milano Moda provides courier delivery throughout the country, and you can also try on things for free.

White cotton shirt from the Milano Moda store, price: from 9 800 rubles.

Monobrand clothing store Milano Moda

Telephone: +7 (800) 333-44-87
Website: milanomoda.ru
Instagram: @milanomodaru

Without collar

Men's collarless shirts are quite popular. Such a men's shirt at first glance resembles a turtleneck, adjacent to the body. This option looks very elegant and is well suited for young, business men. This option is not worn with ties, suitable for men with excellent physique.

Rack

Men's shirts with a high collar look quite elegant. Shirts with a stand-up collar will suit stylish, confident representatives of the stronger sex. The official name of such a collar is mandarin, because this type was invented in China. It looks like a shirt with a collar like a model without it, now this type of collar is in trend.

A shirt with such a collar will suit the following categories of men:

  • who have a long, fairly well-defined neck,
  • slender and sophisticated men,
  • stylish young people who want to look slightly careless.

Double

Men's double-collar shirts are quite popular. This model of a man’s collar is fastened with a cufflink; it has a rather complicated cut. The edges of the collar can be straight, rounded or triangular, a shirt with such a collar can be worn with a tie. There are lovely double butterfly collars that blend perfectly with a tuxedo and create a simply flawless holiday style. In addition, the top layer is slightly higher than the bottom, which looks very interesting and very relevant.

Triple

Men's shirts with a triple collar are something interesting. Such multi-layering will definitely not become an everyday option, but it cannot be completely ruled out. This collar visually expands the cheekbones and shoulders, is suitable for short men, looks stylish in combination with business clothes.

Round

Shirts with a round collar look quite neat. A shirt with such a collar will allow you to create a light, interesting image, both for young men and older men. A round collar is one of the classic options, but it is not used as often as a model with pointed ends. Under it, you can wear a tie or bow tie, classic-style trousers or jeans.

Shirts with an apache collar - this is an option for real hooligans who slightly want to emphasize their negligence. This style of collar completely crosses out all business conventions and allows a person to look quite modern. The collar in this style was invented by the French, so that they did not have to deliberately unfasten the top buttons on the shirt. At first, this design decision was perceived ambiguously, but then it became stylish and fashionable in all countries of the world.

Collar Size

The size of the collar of a men's shirt is not only what it matters. On whether the man chooses the right option, it will directly depend on how stylish and successful his image will be.

To correctly determine the size of the collar, a man should measure the circumference of the neck and add a few centimeters to this value so that nothing presses anywhere. But the distance between the neck and collar should not be thicker than one finger.

How to iron?

It is not enough for a man to simply choose a thing of the right style and size, you also need to know how to iron the collar. In fact, everything is quite simple and you can iron the collar of a men's shirt according to the following scheme:

  • put the shirt on the board with the front part to the bottom,
  • moisten the collar slightly
  • gently move from one edge of the fabric to the other, trying to capture absolutely all the folds,
  • remove bends by moving the iron from bottom to top,
  • turn the shirt and stroke the collar on the other side.

All kinds of collar shirts for men can be ironed on approximately the same principle. The main thing is to set the correct temperature and mode on the iron. If a steam iron is used, then it is not necessary to wet the collar with water, because hot steam removes even the largest folds.

What to combine with?

Shirts with a short collar or a large one have their own principle of combining with different things. Different types of men's collars are combined with clothes from various styles, which can be considered in the following scheme:

Collar Type Men's ShirtsWhat can be combined with
ClassicalDouble-breasted blazers or classic striped suits.
ItalianClassic pants or jeans, jackets.
KentPlain tie, classic or denim pants, knit sweaters.
ButterflyTuxedo, business card, tailcoat.
MandarinFrench, classic or denim pants.
TabTie, dress pants and suits.
Batten downTie with a narrow knot, things in casual style.
SharkTie with a large knot, jacket or tuxedo.

Combining shirts with a large collar or a small one with suits is quite good, but you need to know what tie to choose and how to tie it better.

Fashionable men's looks with a shirt

Using shirts with collars of various types, men can create quite bright and interesting images. For example, the following combinations can be noted:

  • shirt with a classic collar, a business suit, classic shoes,
  • shirt with stand-up collar, denim pants, boots,
  • shirt with a collar shark, tie with a large knot and pants in classic color,
  • a shirt with a large collar, a knit sweater, classic pants or jeans.


You can come up with many more interesting and original images, complemented by a men's shirt with a stand-up collar or a model in a classic style.

Small conclusion

To choose a shirt with a stand-up collar or a classic, versatile option, you will have to try a little. It is worth remembering that the collar can be considered one of the main elements of a men's shirt, which can decorate or ruin the image. It is necessary to consider models with several types of collars in order to accurately understand which one will become the most suitable.

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